Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Double Update: Dreadnought and Landspeeder

Hopefully, you all enjoyed your respective holidays, I know I sure did.

A part of me really doesn't like how much fun GW plastics are to put together. I bought all of the stuff I'm going to need for my 500pts Red Scorpions army, and along way, I thought that I'd make a tutorial for magnetizing heavy and special weapons guys. That all fell by the wayside when I stepped back and noticed two fully built squads of Space Marines with all the Forge World goodies you can jam into 10-man tactical squad, all with no pictures. Well, $#!+...

I picked up the following two beauties for myself for Christmas and just got around to finishing and photographing them. The first is Forge World's newer Ironclad dreadnought, the second is a plastic landspeeder with some extras. Enjoy!


Ironclad Dreadnought of the Adeptus Astartes Red Scorpions


Side view showing the Seismic Hammer


A shot of this Dreadnought's Hurricane Bolter


Rear view


Laid out are some of the weapons and other pieces of equipment
available to to Ironclad Dreadnoughts


This picture shows the typical armament for an Ironclad


Magnetizing this beast was pretty easy. All of the smaller weapon and upgrade options (the meltagun, frag assault launchers up top and the missiles) are all attached with 1/16th inch magnets. Just grab your magnets, a 1/16th inch bit for your pin vise, and you're off to the races. Just remember to check your polarities. Making a small pilot hole with a hobby knife helps, too.

Magnetizing Dreadnought arms is a bit more tricky, especially with resin. I use 8mm (or thereabout) disc magnets. These are typically about 1/32nd of an inch thick. In order to minimize the appearance of having your dreadnought arms looking like they're stuck on by disc magnets, I use a punch and dye set to make a couple of plasticard washers. The outside diameter is about the same as the shoulder mechanism on the Dreadnought sarcophagus, while the inside diameter matches the outside diamater of the disc magnet.




If you do this, you should try to get the inside hole as centered as possible, but it's not the end of the world if you don't. Once you've got your plasticard washers glued onto the dreadnought arms, your magnets can go in. The fit should be a bit snug. The plasticard bits have the added benefit of keeping the magnet in place. The brand of super glue I use doesn't like to bond nickel to resin, so the plasticard is a must.




This is about what your dreadnought will look like when the plastic washer and magnet are all glued in place. Same goes for the arm.

Speaking of magnets, pictures of my fully magnetized Landspeeder follow.


Landspeeder of the Adeptus Astartes Red Scorpions


Side view


This speeder is armed with a heavy flamer and heavy bolter.
It is drawn from 2nd Company's pool of vehicles


Rear view


A close-up of the speeder's pilot


The speeder's weapons have been laid at its base for display


Additional weapons shown here


This weapons configuration is throughly illegal for regular games
of Warhammer 40,000

Putting in a couple extra minutes to magnetize everything neatly lets you do stupid stuff like what you see above. So far, I haven't bothered to paint the other weapons options, seeing as they're really expensive and I'm probably not going to use them.

Both pilot and gunner are wearing Mk. IV helmets, just like the rest of the army. I didn't have enough helmets to spare from the Red Scorpions upgrade kits from Forge World, so I had to sculpt up the "snout" on the helmet myself out of green stuff. I think they turned out quite well. The only extra work, aside from the sculpting, was that I had to trim down the grille on the front of the Mk. VII helmets to get a smooth slope from the brow ridge, down. If you have the ability to make molds and cast models in resin, do it with the sculpts. That'll save you loads of time.

I did, however have an extra shoulder pad, so I put that on the driver's arm to add just a bit of flair to the model. Also, here's a picture of the base. The rest of the army is flocked similarly. It's generic enough that it'll fit on just about any table, and doesn't take away from the model on the base.




That's all for now. As always, thank you for reading, and I hope you enjoyed the photos. If you guys have any questions, feel free to ask.

All the best,
-Jordan

5 comments:

GDMNW said...

Thanks for the tip on how you did the dreadnought's arm.

Your painting is clean and sharp.

Do you find the speeder a little awkward to assemble? It's always struck me as one of the poorer vehicle kits...

Myles said...

Thank you for the compliments. Yeah, the speeder is a bit fiddly, especially the really thin side bits. It was a real pain trying to get those to line up. Although I think this kit is much better than the older mold design.

oni said...

You sure got that speeder painted up fast. Looks good.

Night Runner said...

Good looking army you got there. I really like it. You know since you have a RS army you should think of joining the Badab blogger group as well.

Here is the link if it interests you:

http://thefallenprinces.blogspot.com/p/badab-veterans.html

Congrats again for the army.

Myles said...

Thanks for the compliments, and I'll definitely check out the Badab blog group.